Nauryz on the Slopes: How Xinjiang’s Spring New Year Warms a Ski Trip
Nauryz, the Persian-Central Asian spring new year, lands in March right when Xinjiang’s snow is still deep. Here is how I fold the festival into a ski week.
Nauryz, the Persian-Central Asian spring new year, lands in March right when Xinjiang’s snow is still deep. Here is how I fold the festival into a ski week.
On a rest afternoon I wandered a craft row near the resorts and realized Xinjiang’s handicrafts are the real souvenir, not the logo mug. A small embroidered cap, a carved knife, a length of rug, each carried the place in a way a l
Urumqi railway station is the unsung hub of a Xinjiang ski trip. I have arrived by train more times than I can count, and the station is the pivot between the city and the snow, faster and calmer than the airport when the weather
Getting to Xinjiang to ski is half the battle, and the domestic flight in is where most trips begin. I fly into Urumqi and connect onward, and the lesson I learned the hard way is that winter weather delays are not a maybe, they a
The best part of a Xinjiang ski day is not the last run, it is the first kebab at the base-town grill. The smell of cumin and lamb fat on charcoal hits you the moment you unclick, and after a cold afternoon there is no better welc
Turpan is a day’s drive from the resorts and sits in a basin far below sea level, which makes its winter a different animal: brutally cold at night, strangely soft in the day, and dry in a way that even a skier notices. I went on
On a non-ski day near [[urumqi-nanshan-ski|Urumqi Nanshan]] I drove out to the ghost city, a spread of wind-eroded rock towers that look like a ruined town no one built. The wind there is constant and loud, and standing among the
On a rest morning from [[urumqi-nanshan-ski|Urumqi Nanshan]] I took the long road north to Hemu, a cluster of wooden huts in a snow-filled valley that looks like a postcard someone forgot to develop. Smoke from the stoves rose str
I first saw Kanas in winter by accident, a rest day from [[koktokay-fuyun-ski|Koktokay]] when the wind closed the upper lifts and a driver offered the long loop north. The lake, famous for summer color, was a vast sheet of grey ic
On a [[ili-valley-winter|Ili valley]] evening I was pulled, laughing and off-balance, into a circle of strangers stepping in a slow stamp-and-clap pattern around a fire. That was my first Dolan dance, a communal dance of the Tarim